Brunello di Montalcino has always been thought of as the gold standard of Italian wine. High in tannins, Brunellos are perfect deep cellar wines, ideal for aging. In order to be considered a Brunello di Montalcino, it must be made from 100% Sangiovese grape (locally known as the Brunello grape). No ands, ifs, or buts. No two ways about it. 100% Brunello. Period.

How is it that these winemakers have been sneaking other grape varieties such as Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon into their prized wines and assuming that the adulteration would go unnoticed? Isn’t it obvious that if they were discovered, anarchy and nothing less would ensue? It is enough to not only damage an individual winery’s reputation but to ruin the credibility of the varietal as a whole.

According to the New York Times, “The prosecutor has impounded more than a million bottles from some of the most prominent Italian winemakers — including Antinori and Frescobaldi — while he determines whether they used unapproved techniques or grapes other than brunello… supposedly to give their idiosyncratic wine a broader international appeal.”

Furthermore the sale of the 2003 vintage is suspended until a system of checks and balances is implemented to guarantee the integrity of the wine.

The situation is bad for the economy and morale of Italy and winemakers in general. Some see the investigation as a witch hunt, intended to hurt the Brunello image, to disgrace the producers, especially smaller businesses. And it is a sad time for the people who have put Brunello di Montalcino on a pedestal.

Mike and I recently took our horse and buggy down the road to Rhinebeck to try Terrapin, a stylish restaurant housed in an old church. We each ordered bloody red meat and a lavish gnocchi appetizer sautéed with juicy duck livers, shitake mushrooms and leeks in a creamy sage sauce. We were thrilled with our food selections, yet we couldn’t manage to choose a wine. The wine list demonstrated a veritable schmorgesbord of delectable reds and crispy whites, including many pricey offerings. We perused until we could peruse no more. Not wanting to break the bank but still craving the roundness and depth of a show-stopping red, I asked our server for his expert opinion.

He suggested one of his personal favorites, a 2004 Ridge Geyserville Zinfandel. I couldn’t get enough of this wine and even took the empty bottle home as a souvenir. I love affordable wines that taste this sublime, this balanced, this lush! It perfectly paired with the gnocchi and the red meat and sold for just $50, which suggests a retail price of about $35. It is made from 75% Zinfandel, 18% Carignane, and 7% Petite Sirah- marketing as a zin, but really a field-blend. Although still developing, it was pretty close to perfection. On the nose, it smelled of berries, chocolate and some oak. It tasted of opulent berries and cherries with a hint of spice, each property demonstrating depth and complexity.